There’s a weight to The Pub that not many other British institutions hold for me, and I know I am not alone in that sentiment. Most people have a relationship with the pub in the UK. From the local old man boozer where you had your first snakebite (serving you well under the legal age), the posh gaff where you awkwardly went on your first date or the Desi pub you get a curry from with your family as a treat, there is truly too much to say and not enough time.
One reason the Marigolds love pubs is because they are a home for community building and a place for idea exchange. The Marigold was conceived in pubs. Originally it was to be a pub and community space (and might still be one day), with a garden jam packed with marigolds and an allotment. Roast potatoes on the bar on Sundays, cobs every day and a weekly meat raffle and potluck. We wanted it to serve as a cheap venue for hire for community events and to share produce with our neighbours. Of course there will be karaoke, and a good pint for under £3. We can dream!
As well as ideas, pubs are vital spaces for exchange of goods and services. I recently learned about the Irish Bankers Strikes (1966 - 1970), the longest of which went on for 6 months. In short, the bankers were longing out some negotiations regarding wages and inflation, and decided to strike. Most pundits predicted that life in Ireland would come to a standstill, instead, pubs became hubs for printing their own money and money lending:
“At the time when the Irish still stopped for a pint at their local pub at least three times a week, everyone - and especially the bartender - had a pretty good idea who could be trusted […] In no time, people forged a radically decentralised monetary system with the country’s 11,000 pubs as its key nodes and basic trust as its underlying mechanism” (Utopia for Realists, Rutger Bregman)
However, in fact, the strike lasted six months with barely any effect on daily life. The power of pubs is real and tangible people. I question whether this could happen again in the present day, after such a swathe of pub closures over the past 20 years (more than 25% of UK pubs have closed since 2001), but I like to think that it could.
I think the reason learning about the Irish Bankers Strike really stirred something in me is because as a kid I saw these types of exchanges every time we went to the pub. Nostalgia incoming; my Dad was the original Barhound (Marigold’s affectionate term for one who props up the bar on the regs). Some of my first memories involve being in pubs, seemingly in the middle of a weekday, waiting for my Dad to finish chatting breeze to the barkeep. He was an upholsterer, so many of these memories were “work related”. He’d take me along under the premise that he was “doing a job for them” (bars and pubs need chairs of course), and many times we’d be somewhere and my Dad would exclaim “I upholstered these chairs in the 80s, bloody ell”. However, inevitably, most of the time it was just him popping in for a swift one and dragging me along. Aside from the “business networking” my favourite stops were the ones where he would manage to barter some food in exchange for fish that he’d caught (I remember a lot of probably poached pheasants), that scene from Withnail and I come to life. The idea that you could exchange delicious things at the pub has always stuck in my head since then, and I was always hopeful that the usually boring adult talk would culminate in the procurement of something I could pluck and eat.
We aim to have several issues in the works in regards to pubs because there is so much to say, and not enough space in just one issue. The emotive nature of the pub means we might need to give ourselves a bit of space to ramble. For our first issue we thought we would start with a pub Rolodex of sorts. Since Lockdown 1, and now 2, pubs are what we have collectively missed the most, we just thought we would take a second to revel in a bit of that nostalgia, and raise a glass to some of our fave London establishments. Our good friend and special guest this week Mr. L Ovaltine of the South London Chess Club has kindly given us a few of his faves, and we try our best to condense our sprawling lists down to just 5 gems each.
Cheers, Santé, Sláinte etc etc,
Emily Barhound Boyfield and the Marigolds
**please note, whilst this issue was not sponsored by Taytos despite the proliferation of mentions, we would be more than willing to work with the potato legends. Get in touch, let’s link and build! 👏 po👏 ta👏 toes👏
Suggested Pairing
Between us all I can’t believe it’s taken us this long to do a pub issue. Especially considering this newsletter was born out of drunken pub chats, or rather, us missing them.
There can only truly be one pairing for this issue; the triple threat of a Guinness (in your preferred size, though god forbid you serve it to us in a straight glass), a pickled egg, and a pub salad (crisp bag split open with a mix of at least three snacks i.e scratchings, nuts etc).
The perfect distillation of all three of us.
Skehans
1 Kitto Rd, London SE14 5TW
There isn’t much to be said about this place that hasn’t already been said. It’s the HQ, the compound, the basecamp. Skehans is an authentic South London Public House; the staff are welcoming and warm and Chai’s Garden serves up tip-top Thai food alongside your reasonably priced pints. It truly is a place for friends, warmth and energetic discussion. Look up while you are there and spot the model plane on the roof which is very groovy. Live music and a dancing in the pre-pandemic era.
The Hermits Cave
28 Camberwell Church St, Camberwell, London SE5 8QU
The quintessential Camberwell local’s local. No nonsense watering hole with good beer and a welcoming warmth. To quote my comrades at HERESY, “The same people own the pub over the road which is 11 different types of Pale Ale on tap kind of deal, but Hermits has Stella on tap which is the Heresy go to and can be weirdly rare in London”. Amen to that.
The Angel
101 Bermondsey Wall E, London SE16 4NB
Sitting on Bermondsey Wall, outside The Angel on a hot summer’s day is a simple but beautiful pastime. It’s a Sam Smiths, which is the perfect publican chain project. If you’ve not been to Tadcaster, you should go. The Angel is a beautiful riverside establishment; you can drink outside and look across to the other side of the river and think about how glad you are that you aren’t across there (whilst drinking three-pound Taddy Lagers). You can also walk up to the Southbank in a about half an hour from The Angel as well, perfect.
Tapping the Admiral
77 Castle Rd, Kentish Town, London NW1 8SU
The only honourable mention on the list for a Public House north of the river. This factor might be due to my separatist loyalty to South London but I thought North London deserved a shout out. This is very much another local’s local, hidden in the backstreets between Kentish Town and Camden, untouched by modern gastro madness or awful millennial minimalism. The pub’s naval inspired name and interior give it a warm, homely and welcoming feel. The name of the pub refers to an old story concerning Admiral Nelson. After the Battle of Trafalgar, his body was stored in a barrel of brandy to preserve it on the journey home. On reaching port, the barrel was empty of liquor, it turns out the sailors had been 'tapping' the barrel.
The Dog and Bell
116 Prince St, Deptford, London SE8 3JD
Fire engine red on the outside and traditional brown wood on the interior, The Dog and Bell feels like home. One of South East London’s best kept secrets and the starting point for the yearly tradition of Deptford’s very own Jack in the Green festival on May Day. The ‘Jack’ is made up of leaves, flowers and laurels and is dressed in the pub garden the night before the event. A truly welcoming boozer with a lively group of local punters. Good, traditional beer selection with a vast selection of bottled Belgian beers to keep the Europhiles happy.
The Pride of Spitalfields
3 Heneage St, Spitalfields, London E1 5LJ
Probably the only reason to go anywhere near Brick Lane (except to get a samosa or bagel). The cat who lived there recently died and everyone on Twitter lost their shit, including me. They used to do cobs behind the bar but I think they stopped, either way it’s a true gem and one that never lets me down. Brass horseshoes, brass tacks on the barstools, and brassy haired landladies - an almost perfect London Pub. A really good trash playlist too (get ready to drunk singscream Dakota even though you didn’t realise you knew all the words).
The Palm Tree
27 Grove Rd, Bethnal Green, London E3 5BH
A true east end boozer on the canal in Mile End. They have live music there sometimes, the drum kit in the corner and pictures of various jazz legends on the wall suggests as much. It’s cash only, and I’m pretty sure you can get Taytos (don’t hold me to this though). Regardless of whether there are Taytos (my usual yardstick for a good pub), it’s still a real gem. Old school service and great light when the weather’s right. A treat on a Sunday afternoon after a walk down the canal.
The Hare
505 Cambridge Heath Rd, London, E2 9BU
There are increasingly few pubs around Bethnal Green that have any character, but The Hare definitely does. Last time we went here, Rebecca and I were dressed to the nines to go see our good friend dance IN AN ACTUAL CLUB (remember them?) We both had a Courvoisier (only after sinking 3-4 Cafe Patrons in The Dolphin, naturally). Honestly, I’m feeling a little emotional thinking about it. They have a ‘whiskey club’ each week, with discounts on decent whiskey (there’s a chalk board up somewhere with the weekly offering). Just a great, classic, chill boozer.
The Royal Oak
44 Tabard St, London SE1 4JU
Nice pie/ steak sandwich situation. Very good for dates - you will look like you know your shit. Also well connected for quick escapes if they’re a dry lunch. Lace curtains, good pub dog, nice staff. When you’re in Borough and you wanna scream because there’s too many tourists and the neoliberal London hellscape becomes a bit unbearable, I got you - just a few streets away lies this gem. There’s often a singalong round the piano, and I often disappear to the toilet here, only to be found a few hours later singing a Lady Gaga duet with some old boozehound.
The Blue Posts
22 Berwick St, Soho, London, W1F 0QA
Was hard to pick a pub in Soho if I’m honest. There are too many memories, and too many good Sam Smith pubs. However I went off piste and chose The Blue Posts. Nan’s living room vibe. Very conveniently located, and often one I like to go to to read a book because it’s cozy. Also perfect for meeting early afternoon/evening before doing a little crawl around Soho. It feels like somewhat of a central point, which the night unravels around.
The Shakespeare’s Head
1 Arlington Way, Clerkenwell, London, EC1R 1XA
The Shakespeare’s Head is one of those flat roofed municipal looking buildings that look like they’ve been extracted from an 80s estate. This is one of my favourite style of pubs: I get off on the grey pebble dash exteriors. Inside is a proper old school boozer complete with knackered carpet, black and white photos on the walls and an array of interesting locals. Perfect if you’re having a classy night round the corner at Sadlers Wells and fancy slumming it for an after show drink.
The Glory
281 Kingsland Rd, Haggerston, London, E2 8AS
Watering hole and performance hotspot for the east London queer illuminate. Expect to see Sharon Le Grand belting the HIGH notes & profanities, Princess Julia’s ‘Loves on Sundays’ and Jonny Woo, Natalie Imbruglia, acoustic guitar sans clothes.
The Salisbury
1 Grand Parade, Green Lanes, Harringay, London N4 1JX
Chequered floor, nooks and crannies, cricket in one corner a Campari spritz in another. Grand old style circular bar with saloon and lounge features, large selection of beer. Sits in the epicentre of Green Lanes so have that fifth pint and mop it up with a kebab.
Mannions
158 Broad Ln, London, N15 4QJ
Friendly no nonsense service, but the highlights are worth your trip-
Karaoke on Fridays paired with a banging jukebox
Salt and vinegar Taytos
Stew on St Paddy's Day
A mural which the Tate should add to their collection
If you want to watch the fight, you can probably convince them to put it on, other sports available- rugby, football, Gaelic football etc.
The Shakespeare
57 Allan Road, Stoke Newington, London, N16 8RY
Visits to the Shakespeare are often paired with The Railway Tavern, an easy walk away. The Shakespeare just surpasses The Tavern, wooden interior, great beers and banquette seating. A place for a Thursday end of work drink that turns into five, pizza can be ordered from next door.
The Auld Shillelagh
105 Stoke Newington Church St, London N16 0UD
I trust anyone who loves this pub. Though, I only realised how uninterested the service I was getting was, till I started going with an Irishman and getting my Guinness brought to the table a good 4 minutes after ordering to ensure a proper settle.
A solid Tayto selection (though I’ve been reliably informed they don’t do the best flavour - beef and onion), a terrible playlist of 80’s classics and joint best pint of Guinness in London.
The Toucan
19 Carlisle St, London, W1D 3BY
The other half of the best Guinness in London, this is my first pub love. One my Dad and I have been known to slope off to and have a quiet drink outside of of an afternoon. It’s a good place to watch Soho walk by without having to compromise on a proper pint. Also, you can get beef and onion Taytos there and their whisky selection is solid and inexpensive.
Southampton Arms
139 Highgate Rd, London, NW5 1LE
An all-rounder; this is good in the Summer, Winter, wet and dry. Take yourself for a soggy walk round the Heath when pubs reopen and make sure you end up here with a pork bap and a pint of lager top - you’ve been on a walk after all. I’ll probably be there too.
The French House
49 Dean St, Soho, London, W1D 5BG
Though I feel strangely betrayed by their decision to start serving pints recently (halves stay colder - sue me) this has all the trademarks of a great. A landlady who truly gives no fucks, some of the best regulars you can find in London and Breton cider. It introduced me to white wine kirs and, subsequently, hangovers.
The Kings Arms
25 Roupell St, London, SE1 8TB
Another one of my Dad’s spots, this is the perfect winter pub. Situated on the most Dickensian of all London streets it still has all it’s original woodwork as well as both a saloon and public bar and a proper wood fire. I recommend it on a Saturday afternoon with no post work drinkers and ideally after noodles at Maries on Lower Marsh. If you can’t get to Marie’s though they serve top notch thai food in the back extension which has the added bonus of looking like you’re onboard a ship.
Thanks for tuning in today, sweet friends. We’ve had a text heavy week, so just a few prime links today:
You can find a Google Maps list of all pubs mentioned in this issue HERE. Free sticker pack for anyone who manages goes to all 20 (pics or it didn’t happen).
Our good friend L Ovaltine made us a pub playlist for this issue, which we are forever grateful for. GET READY FOR SOME PURE, UNADULTERATED PUB JAMS. Find it on Spotify HERE and pretend you’re sauced up teetering around a mahogany bar somewhere.
Marigold Shop - a shameless plug, sue us. We are selling bits and bobs, with a 12.5% going to Sistah Space. Charity changes each quarter. We have a few more products up, including prints from Sophie Williams (the pictures from our ‘Nonno Tomato’ issue). Christmas is coming up, just saying - support a fledgling business, innit. We’re going to plough any profits we make back into Marigold, so maybe one day it will mean we can open up that community pub.